Skirts

Skirt Shape

The most common shape for the skirt was "pagoda", rather than "bell". The widest part of a bell-shaped skirt is higher than the more common pagoda-shaped skirt. The elliptical-shaped skirt did not come into use until toward the end of the Civil War. These skirts were flatter at the front and longer at the back, sometimes with a small train, even dragging on the ground.

Waist Treatments

Most common was the 2-directional pleating where pleated toward the centre front of the dress. This style was worn by most women in all age groups. Box pleats (where pleats in which every other pleat faces its predecessor) was usually worn by older women. There is an article about gauging skirts here which describes how to apply an even pleat.

Skirt Lengths

Typically skirt lengths were less than 4" off the ground. This was more practical and prevented the hem from fraying too quickly and the skirt acting as a sponge, mop and broom. Those that were hemmed to the floor were often enveloped in a hem protector braid, a ½ to 1" flat braid stitched on for easy removal. This prevented the edge of the skirt becoming soiled and frayed. It was sometimes sewn on dresses that were not floor length to protect the hem.

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[Article by Cassandra]