Daywear

Bodices

Most popular style for bodices was the shaped/fitted or "V" bodice.

The gathered or "O" bodice was popular amongst the younger women.

The fan-front or "Y" bodice was popular amongst older women.

The waistlines of bodices were at the natural waistline. Bodices included lines which emphasised the narrowness of the waist and the width of the shoulders. Shoulder seams were lengthened and armhole seams (armscyes) were shaped to appear as diagonal rather than vertical lines and fitted closely under the armpit. Dresses fastened at the centre front. Sleeves were fullest at the elbow making the waist appear small by comparison.

Ensembles

The majority of women in all age groups wore dresses composed of matching bodices and skirts that were attached to each other, or of matching bodies and skirts worn as ensembles. When a bodice had a waistband sewn to it, the skirt waistband was worn outside the bodice waistband. When the bodice did not have a waistband, it was worn outside concealing the skirt waistband. The single most common bodice style worn by all age groups was the bodice and skirt made of the same material and worn as a dress. A key characteristic of combinations and dresses was the presence of a waist seam that completely encircled the waist.

When women wore outfits that did not consist of a single fabric ensemble, the bodice was generally some colour other than white, usually a solid bodice and skirt. Next popular was a solid bodice and a printed skirt. Rarest combination was a printed bodice with a solid skirt.

White Shirts

Not worn typically during the Civil War and only occasionally by those in the 15-25 age group. White shirts were usually worn with a "waist" (like a corset – or "vest" of the period) or a jacket (usually a bolero). These shirts were not generally worn on their own until after the Civil War.

They were constructed and styled like bodices, i.e. armscyes well off the shoulder; centre front fastening (even if cleverly hidden); sleeves full and large at the elbow. Usually fastened with buttons and buttonholes; straight full sleeves gathered into a wristband; sewn into waistband. Shirts should be made of sturdy cotton fabric woven tightly enough to be opaque. The lines of chemises and corsets should not be visible through the fabric. "Waists" had horizontal lines and were universally made of solid fabrics and dark in colour.

Garibaldi Shirts

Favoured by younger women, Garibaldi shirts had trim at centre front, waistband, shoulders and cuffs. These were made of coloured fabrics, not white, for adults.

Sleeves

The most popular style was the 2-piece shaped sleeve which resembled a man’s coat sleeve of the period. The second is the straight, full, rectangle gathered into a band or cuff at the wrist. Pagoda sleeves become progressively wider to their hems and are usually ¾ length, often worn with an undersleeve.

Sleeves were shaped with exaggerated fullness at the elbow to help accentuate the smallness of the waist. They were attached to armscyes in a manner that provided a relatively smooth line from neck to elbow and helped to create the illusion of wide, sloping shoulders. They were made of the same fabric as the dress. Short sleeves were a characteristic of children’s dresses which some young teens continued to wear as they adopted adult clothing styles. Adult women would wear short sleeves in evening dresses.

Collars, cuffs and chemisettes

Were worn as practical as well as decorative elements. They were relatively plain and made of washable, starchable cotton fabrics.

Belts

Most popular was the straight belt, with or without an apparent buckle or fastener. Belts were worn to enhance the overall lines of the garment, placing emphasis at the centre of waist. Many were dark in colour made of solid fabrics and contrasted with the dress fabric. Most fastened with hooks and eyes; buckles were decorative. "Medici" belts had a point (or points) at the front and occasionally at the back. They appear to be fastened somewhere other than centre front. Most belts were constructed of a solid fabric, some were leather, very few were velvet.

Next: Skirts

[Article by Cassandra]